Kangchenjunga, Nepal – Lonely Planet Top 15 “off the grid” places to go in the world

As part of their new publication “OFFBEAT“, world renowned travel guru’s LONELY PLANET have named the Kangchenjunga region that lies in the Far East of Nepal as one of their Top 15 “off the grid” places for 2023.

You can read the Lonely Planet blog in full via the link below:

15 best places to go off-grid around the world in 2023

Now we’re going to tell you everything you need to know about the Kangchenjunga region in a moment, but let’s clear one thing up first….the spelling!

There is fact no definitive spelling for Kangchenjunga.

Whilst there are different spellings of Kangchenjunga there is only one way to spell “spectacular”!

You may notice that Lonely Planet and others use Kanchenjunga, dropping the “g” between the “n” and the “c” in the first part of the name.

Other spellings include Kanchanjunga and Kangchendzonga. Anyway, we’ve been using Kangchenjunga ourselves for as far as we go back (and that’s a long way).

Mind you seasoned trekkers and mountaineers tend to refer to the mountain itself simply as “Kanch”. That is in fact what Kangchenjunga is…..a mountain, or rather it is a huge mountain massif, which is indeed the third highest mountain in the world (8586m, 28,169 feet).

So, is Kangchenjunga “off the grid”? Well, compared to the Everest region in Nepal it most certainly. In fact Lonely Planet (and who are we to argue) say that the EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK attracts around 57,000 trekkers annually and Kangchenjunga just 900 trekkers!

Forget the Everest crowds, this is proper trekking solitude

Now, the sheer scale and size of the Kangchenjunga region/Kangchenjunga Conservation area does mean there’s a heck of a lot of space for those 900 intrepid trekkers to spread themselves out in and find peace and solitude amongst some of the highest and most spectacular mountains in the world.

So, given its outlandish and wild scenery why do so few people trek in the Kangchenjunga region? Well, we think it’s due to a few things, although if given the choice we’d choose trekking to Kangchenjunga Base Camp over trekking to Everest Base Camp any day.

Firstly, Everest is well….er….Everest. It’s the highest mountain in the world after all, so just like K2 doesn’t get anything like the footfall Everest does (even though it also a more spectacular trek and mountain) being the highest does put you “top of the bucket list” and thousands whom could best be described as non-trekkers have Everest Base Camp on their bucket list.

Another reason is access. Kanchenjunga is far more remote, so getting to Kangchenjunga isn’t as easy as hopping on a plane in Kathmandu and being at Lukla at the start of the trek to Everest Base Camp just 30 mins later.

Oh no!…..another trekker. Things are starting to get busy up here 😉

To get to the trailheads for Kangchenjunga you presently have to take one internal flight from Kathmandu and then basically two days of overland (and sometimes rough) travel and pretty much the same to get back to Kathmandu. Long, rough, challenging journeys therefore put off most people, but also eat into that all to valuable holiday time.

Time is usually one thing most people don’t have a lot of, especially nowadays, so whereas the Everest Base Camp Trek can be done in about 16 days, to reach both Kangchenjunga Base Camps (North and South) you need at least 21 days and given the nature of trekking here more than that really is necessary.

More days and more difficult travel of course means more cost too. Plus you need a special permit to visit the Kangchenjunga region and preferably a guide and porterage too. So, that adds to the cost. After all you can (and many do) trek independently to Everest Base Camp. There are pretty much trekking lodges in every village along the way and it’s not difficult to find the route from Lukla to Everest Base Camp either. All you need to do is follow the crowds.

So, surely the whole point and definition of “off the grid” is not to follow the crowds and so it is that combination of ease of access, time, regulations and indeed trek infrastructure that keep the Kangchenjunga region free from the masses and maintain its reputation as a truly authentic Himalayan trek.

Life is much more traditional and authentic and the welcoming locals see very few foreigners

In fact it’s more challenging to get the start of the trek to reach Kangchenjunga Base Camp at the time of writing than it was when we first trekked there 30 years ago. Back then we could fly to a mountain airstrip at Taplejung via Biratnagar. But, until that route is (hopefully) restored one day then you have to fly to Bhadrapur, which takes around 50 minutes. From here it’s then a drive into the verdantly lush tea growing region of Nepal to Ilam. This takes around 4-hrs and is one of the few places along the way where there is anywhere half decent to stay. The following day it’s a very long drive of around 10 hours to reach the end of the recently extended “very rough and ready” jeep track and begin trekking after a night in a small village called Sekathum.

As well as jeep roads reaching further into the Kangchenjunga region noways there are also a scattering of trekking lodges aka teahouses all the way to both North and South Base Camps. But, these are by default very simple and basic affairs. Nothing like the “sophistication” of those found in the Everest and Annapurna regions of Nepal for example. Still, given the much, much smaller numbers of trekkers who come here it’s hardly surprising the choices off places to stay overnight is both basic and limited.

Himalayan trekking doesn’t get any better than this

Whereas previously fully supported camping was the only way, the presence of teahouses offering shelter and food does actually keep the costs of trekking here much, much lower. It may surprise you that fully supported camping is quite costly in comparison. But, if you think about it a fully supported camping trek is essentially an expedition. So, everything has to be bought, brought and carried in and out and for that you need a small army of staff, whom of course cost a lot of money.

On a Kangchenjunga teahouse trek all you need is your trusty Snow Cat Travel Guide and a porter.

Most trekkers who come all this way will want to visit both Kangchenjunga Base Camps, the “north” base camp at Pang Pema and the “south” base camp above Ramche. This is indeed amongst the most challenging, adventurous and spectacular treks in the world and made all the better due to the lack of other trekkers, retaining that true “high and wild” nature.

Rush hour close to Kangchenjunga North Base Camp

This lesser trekked region of Nepal remains unspoilt by tourism and although the trekking is very challenging and at very high, sustained altitudes, the rewards are immense. From both base camps the imposing bulk of Kangchenjunga towers right above you. There are high passes to cross, glacial moraine to negotiate and a mountain wilderness to savour as well as tiny, authentic hill villages to appreciate too. In fact this trek has just about everything. But, it is of course a serious undertaking too and most certainly not for novices and remains the domain of the experienced trekker with a good level of fitness only. For those that dare this is Himalayan adventure at its very, very best. All told you’re looking at something g 22-24 days to complete this trek successfully.

For more details see our: Kangchenjunga Base Camp Trek-North & South

Now that’s pretty much the “Kangchenjunga Full Monty”, although the trek can be shortened by choosing either just north base camp, or just south base camp. But, either of those options would be linear i.e the way back down is exactly the same as the way up, but in reverse.

An interesting, but still”out there” option would be a short Kangchenjunga circuit trek.

It’s certainly a very atmospheric short Kangchenjunga trek as you are trekking through delightful valleys and over high mountain passes in the Kangchenjunga Conservation Area.

Crossing the 4690m Mirgin La

This Kangchenjunga short trek follows a part of the route to Kangchenjunga North Base Camp (Pang Pema) heading up valley to the Tibetan influenced mountain village of Ghunsa before heading over high, remote mountain passes and down to exit via the valley system that would ultimately lead to Kangchenjunga South Base Camp. Effectively the route is a “horseshoe circuit” and along the way as well authentic, tiny villages there is a real sense of being off the beaten track. But, for the adventurous trekker the rewards are immense not least the pleasure of trekking through the landscapes that lie close to the Kangchenjunga Massif and the world’s third highest peak. The remote high mountain ramparts boast a healthy snow leopard population and that means other Himalayan wildlife too. Himalayan botanists have long held the Kangchenjunga region in high regard too. As well as unspoiled river valleys, the very challenging two days where you head deep into a mountain wilderness and must negotiate the Sinion La (4670m), the Mirgin La (4690m) and the Sinelapcha La (4730m) reveal impressive mountain views including stunning Najju (7771m), distant Everest’s lesser seen Kangshung face and Makalu too. This may be a short Kangchenjunga trek, but it is better suited to experienced trekkers with a good level of fitness only. 

For more details see our : Short Kangchenjunga Trek

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