Kathmandu to Lo Manthang – Overland to the “Roof of the World” – This exciting and very varied road trip adventure in Nepal takes you from the steamy lowland jungles, which are almost at sea level, up through the mighty Himalayas and across the Tibetan Plateau, “the roof of the world” to the legendary “walled city” of Lo Manthang in the former forbidden Kingdom of Mustang.
There are contrasts all the way. Culture changes, religion and faith changes, landscape changes, climactic changes, vegetation changes, wildlife changes and all determined by topography as you travel through what is often described as a “vertical country”.
Yet, this is a Nepal road trip that you can just about do as part of a two week vacation!
In just a very short distance Nepal does go from almost sea-level to the very highest point in the world (Everest). In simple terms though, we’d describe Nepal as having three parts geographically. A flat bit, a middle bit and a very high bit.
The Flat Bit
This area is known as the Terai Arc, which borders India. It’s a narrow strip of mostly flat land (a rarity in Nepal) that contains fertile farmlands as well as dense sub-tropical jungle. The most famous bit of jungle being Chitwan National Park, home to the Bengal Tiger and One Horned Rhinoceros.
The Middle Bit
Often referred to as the Middle Hills as they are… well…..er…hills that are in between the flat bit and the very high bit! In some places these middle hills are actually as high as the Alps of Europe. Populated by countless villages and terraced hillsides, we’d also include the Kathmandu Valley with its three great Newari cities of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur as part of the middle bit.
The Very High Bit
This being the mountains of the Himalaya. A huge wall of gigantic and seemingly impenetrable peaks of rock, snow and ice. Sometimes referred to as the “Third Pole”. They are of course the highest mountains in the world and the Nepal Himalaya contains several 8,000+m peaks. Everest of course. But also Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Cho Oyu.
THE JOURNEY
Firstly, if we were to go into detail here about all the places visited along the way it would be more like a book than an article! So, we’ve included numerous links about specific places if you’d like to know more.
The journey begins in Kathmandu, the capital and largest city in Nepal. Kathmandu is colourful, chaotic, noisy, polluted, fascinating and irritating in equal measure. The main tourist area of Kathmandu is Thamel. A labyrinth of narrow, bustling streets crammed with cafes, bars, restaurants, shops, hotels and guest houses. Kathmandu is a mix of everything. Literally!
Not surprisingly in this huge, densely populated urban sprawl there’s a lot to see and do.
Find out more about what to see and do in Kathmandu
Bhaktapur
Before we leave Kathmandu, we’d like to give a big SHOUT OUT for the nearby city of Bhaktapur. Stunning Newari architecture and incredibly atmospheric, medieval Bhaktapur is a journey back in time.
Find out more about Bhaktapur
Time to live the big city behind. Anyway, Nepal isn’t really a country of large towns and cities. Rather, it’s the countless number of small villages that best characterise Nepal and where you’ll find the “heart and soul” of Nepal too.
So, today you’re going to do just that and travel to an authentic Nepali village in the middle hills. It’s a spectacular journey. Once you’re out of the urban sprawl things quickly become rural as you follow a road that will take you up and out of the Kathmandu Valley. As the road begins to climb you pass the Nagarjun Forest, a former royal hunting ground that’s now a conservation area.
Reaching the rim of the valley at around 2000m you’re greeted with your first real panoramic views of the Himalayas. And what a sight it is too with the peaks of the Langtang and Ganesh Himal on display. Below you is the Trisuli River Valley and that’s where you’re headed next as the road drops down into this valley and you then head north for a short while on the road that ultimately leads to the Langtang Valley and further to the border crossing into Tibet.
But, you’re not going that far and soon you’ll take a right turn to follow a single track road that leads you up through fragrant pine forests and to emerge at the hill village of Nuwakot.
Like many villages in Nepal, Nuwakot is quite spread out. There’s a main bazaar area, an old royal palace, fort and scattered homesteads on the hillside. You may appreciate visiting the school here (the local kids will be happy to see you), as well as the small school for deaf and mute children (the only one of its kind in Nepal). A short, stiff walk takes you above Nuwakot from where there is a fine vantage point to get better views of the mountains.
Find out more about Nuwakot
THE place to stay in Nuwakot is the Famous Farm. A former Newari Manor House, tastefully converted to provide atmospheric accommodation. It has its own large, private hillside gardens with great views over the Trisuli River Valley below, as well as a vegetable growing area. There are ducks, chickens, turkeys, and goats running around the gardens. It’s around 4-5hrs driving from Kathmandu to reach Nuwakot.
Find out more about The Famous Farm
You’ll remain in the “middle bit” of Nepal as you head from Nuwakot to the Newari hill town of Bandipur. Dropping back down to the Trisuli Valley a road follows the course of the river to join the main highway that links Kathmandu to India. For this section the main highway also follows the course of the Trisuli River, which is one of the most popular rivers in Nepal for rafting. But, you’re only on the highway for a short while, before taking a detour left and to head up almost 1000m in height above the river valley floor. Here lies the small, peaceful, ancient Newari mountain town of Bandipur, which occupies an enviable ‘eagle’s nest’ location perched high in the hills with uninterrupted views over to Manaslu and the Annapurna’s.
Before the advent of roads, Bandipur was on the historic salt trade caravan route between Tibet and India. But, later on in your journey you’ll be following this ancient “salt route” all the way up the Kali Gandaki Valley to cross between the Himalaya and onto Lo Manthang. Thus, Bandipur is a meaningful link to your journey and is reached in about 4hrs driving from Nuwakot.
Find out more about Bandipur
The Old Inn is rated “best place to stay in Bandipur” by Lonely Planet.
Dropping back down to the Trisuli River, it’s now time to head for the “flat bit”. In this instance a 4hr or so drive to Chitwan National Park in the Terai region. Get an early start in the morning and you should reach Chitwan in time for a late afternoon game drive. You may also notice an increase in heat and humidity down here too. The people of the Terai are predominantly of the Tharu tribe, and it is believed they originally came here from the Thar Desert region of India and Pakistan.
Nepal is justly proud that its tiger population is increasing, but there is far more to Chitwan than tigers, which is just as well as the chances of seeing this elusive, camouflaged, primarily nocturnal predator in dense jungle is pretty low.
There are no tourist accommodations within Chitwan National Park and as all jungle safaris have to leave the park before dusk, at night time Chitwan really does belong to the tiger and whatever is on its menu.
Find out more about Chitwan National Park
Most accommodations are in what is known as the “Chitwan Buffer Zone” and scattered around the park boundaries or in towns like Sauraha. You can spend a small fortune on a luxury resort, but all that money won’t increase tiger spotting potential.
Our pick would be the mid-range Into The Wild Eco Resort
From almost sea-level down here in the Terai, the only way now is up and during the next few days you’ll certainly be doing that as you point yourself firmly in the direction of the Himalaya and before you know it you’ll be crossing 4,000m high passes in a jeep!
From Chitwan, you’ll take the main road to Pokhara, which is reached in around 4 hours. Here in Pokhara, you’ll be joined by a Snow Cat Travel Guide, who will accompany you on your journey from this point until you return to Pokhara. Indeed, one of the rules for gaining entry to the restricted area of Upper Mustang is that you must be accompanied by a licenced guide. But, you’ll have time in Pokhara to admire the uninterrupted views of the entire Annapurna range and perhaps as far east to Manaslu and west to Dhaulagiri. In fact if you pick out the summit of Annapurna and have Dhaulagiri (further to the left) in view you’re going to be driving up in between them!
Leaving Pokhara and now in a 4WD vehicle , a metalled highway winds its way up through the Himalayan foothills, and in just around 90 minutes, you’ll reach your overnight destination, the somewhat rarely visited small town of Kushma. Kushma is spectacularly located astride a steep gorge above the Kali Gandaki River.
Spend the night here in a luxury tented camp – The Cliff @ Kushma is reached by crossing a suspension bridge on foot over 500m long that spans the Kali Gandaki gorge, with the river over 200m below!
Now things begin to get even more interesting, not least as the only way is up. You’re now following the one and only road that extends up the Kali Gandaki Valley and eventually to Lo Manthang. From lush sub-tropical vegetation to a high altitude wilderness. In between and as you ascend you’ll notice that the vegetation changes the higher you go, as does the climate. So far you’ve enjoyed the warmth of the middle hills, the heat of the jungle, but now it’s about to get colder.
Beyond Tatopani the road is mostly built over what was the trail for the Annapurna Circuit trek. Tatopani itself is nothing to write home about though. It’s “famous” for its hot springs, which would bring welcome relief for trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit, soothing aching limbs before they ascended over the course of two days to Ghorepani.
Beyond Tatopani the road leaves the river and begins to climb more acutely. Before you know it the gigantic peaks of both Dhaulagiri and Annapurna come into view. A magnificent sight. Reaching the village of Ghasa you enter Lower Mustang and by now the sub-tropical vegetation has gone altogether and the lower flanks of the mountains are covered in pine forests and in the villages the likes of apple trees grow.
After a while the valley broadens out considerably and almost seems to look level. It isn’t as you’re still ascending, but now much more gradually. But, still those magnificent mountain views accompany you on either side of the valley on a scale that is difficult to imagine until you see it for yourself.
The predominately Hindu people of the lower Himalaya are also starting to become less and the Tibetan Buddhist influence is becoming increasingly noticeable. Consequently the homes of the villages you now encounter look different too. This will be more than apparent when you reach your overnight halt at the village of Marpha. There’s a Tibetan Buddhist monastery here and this village, which has always had a reputation for being clean and tidy, features many Tibetan style homes with flat roofed homesteads covered with timber eaves. In Nepal the area of Lower Mustang has always been known for its apple orchards and Marpha itself is considered the “apple pie capital of Nepal”. You’re sure to find apple pie here!
Leaving Marpha and rising steadily, pretty soon the trees start to disappear, and as you approach nearby Jomsom, virtually all vegetation disappears abruptly, marking the furthest extent of the Himalayan rain shadow. On your right, the sharp peak of Nilgiri South is more spectacular than ever before, and you have now crossed through the Himalayas. The arid landscape of the Mustang region is stretched out before you in the form of the upper reaches of the Kali Gandaki. An hour or so beyond Jomsom is Kagbeni. Typical of villages in the Mustang region in terms of architecture, along with Tibetan Buddhist monuments and symbols, Kagbeni is where the restricted area of Upper Mustang begins, and to venture further, special permits are required.
Look skyward, and you may see Lammergeirs and huge Himalayan Griffon Vultures soaring effortlessly on the thermals. Once you’ve had your permits checked at the police post at the edge of Kagbeni, you’re driving into Upper Mustang proper. First up is the Gurung village of Tangbe. As well as traditional Buddhist monuments, there are around 40 “cave-like” houses, giving this tiny settlement an almost prehistoric appearance. Reaching Chhuksang (Chhusang) as well as the village, it’s the weathered landscape of ochre and brown cliffs that’s quite unique and fascinating.
In the various villages of Mustang are a small number of pretty OK guest houses. Although basic and simple, some do provide “creature comforts” such as private rooms with proper beds (sleeping bags not required) and although perhaps rudimentary the “luxury” of a private bathroom.
You can find out much more about Upper Mustang in our MUSTANG TRAVEL GUIDE
As well as the undeniable fact that the landscape has now changed considerably, what is equally undeniable and noticeable is that you’re now at the altitude of 3000m and to venture higher (which you will be) without letting your body get used to the altitude is far from sensible.
So, Chhukksang is a good place to have an acclimatisation day before moving on. That doesn’t mean you have sit around all day doing nothing, unless your body is telling you to do so. You could walk or drive the short distance up a side valley to the tiny settlement of Tetang and take a look at the nearby Himalayan salt mine. On the opposite side of the valley, where there is no road, you could walk to the rarely visited monastery at Gumbakang.
Leaving Chhuksang a short distance away as you approach Chele your attention may be drawn to a number of “sky caves” across the valley. Passing Chele the road now climbs away from the valley floor, first to the Taklam La (3624m) and then higher to the Dajori La (3735m). This is a spectacular viewpoint, particularly if you look back towards from whence you came, with the peaks of the Annapurna range and Dhaulagiri on display, reaffirming the sensation that you really are in the high lands that lie beyond the “Himalayan wall”. As you descend towards Samar, the familiar colours associated with the Mustang landscape have a noticeable addition: green! This is due to the number of poplar trees that thrive here, adding all-year-round colour to this otherwise barren and hostile landscape.
There are still several passes to cross on this incredible journey, including the Bhena La (3860m), the Syangboche La (3850 m), and the Nyi La (4010 m), amongst others. Reaching the ruins of the old settlement of Ghemi, you can stop to view the longest Mani wall in Upper Mustang too. If time allows, then a short 20-minute detour to Dhakmar is highly recommended. It’s a very picturesque detour amongst fields of farmed buckwheat (a Mustang staple) along with beautiful scenery too, particularly the red-coloured cliffs. From Dhakmar, a further 40 minutes of driving brings you to Charang, where you’ll spend a couple of nights in Mustang’s second-largest village. But, with just 130 or so homes and around 700 inhabitants, that’s hardly large.
For more about Charang see our WHY VISIT CHARANG article.
From Charang, the fabled “walled city” of Lo Manthang is just a couple of hours drive away. So, there’s plenty of time for a little and very worthwhile detour first.
Away from the main route to Lo Manthang and up a side valley from Charang, you can head up a jeep track to the tiny settlement of Lo Gekar and perhaps feel like you’ve really travelled back in time to the “Mustang that was”. It takes around 45 minutes of driving to reach Lo Gekar (also known as Saukre). A little further, and you reach the ancient, remote monastery of Ghar Gompa, which lies at an altitude of 3950m. Dating back some 1200 years, Ghar Gompa is one of the oldest and most important monasteries in Mustang. The interior of the monastery greets the visitor with tiles of Buddha Sakyamuni and Bodhisattvas.
The Gonkhang is situated before the main room, and the different protectors are covered with sheets and shown only once a year during a special festival. Dozens of butter lamps illuminate the main room, making the many statues even more beautiful. The main statue is Padmasambhava, and to each side are his two Yoginis, Yeshe Tshogyal and Mandarava. A statue of a Green Tara may also be found in a smaller room. Back down to Charang and then over the “windy pass” to reach the “capital city” of Lo Manthang (3810m). It is somewhat small for a city. It is a large village, really, with less than 200 homes and around 875 people. Ideal for exploring on foot, and so you’ll be able to do just that and see the various monasteries of Lo Manthang and the former Royal Palace.
There are various things to see in the Lo Manthang Valley area that would make it worthwhile staying in Lo Manthang for a day or two longer. You could, for example, follow the road as far as you are allowed to go north, which would be all the way up to the Tibetan border at the Kora La. There are also the famous sky caves at Chossar, as well as various tiny farming settlements and isolated monasteries to explore too.
At certain times of the year, there is the possibility of visiting and meeting a nomadic tribe of herders. Usually, these nomads make their settlement about an hour’s drive from Lo Manthang. Of course, being nomadic (and indeed one of the few remaining nomadic tribes left in the world), they are not always here in Mustang, as during the summer period (approximately May–September), the tribe has made the long and arduous, perilous journey on remote trails across high Himalayan passes all the way from Dolpo.
But, at some point you’ll have to turn around and head back. As there is only one way in by road to Upper Mustang, there is only one way out by that same road too.
That does however afford you the opportunity to take in new things on the way back, rather than having to try and cram as much as possible into the journey up to Lo Manthang. So, you can head to the village of Chele on the return journey today and as well as being able to spend some time exploring this fascinating village that you will have quickly passed through previously, you can also go “off piste” too and visit ancient Ghyakar.
With the coming of the road to Lo Manthang missing out on Ghyakar altogether, the changes that the road connection brings haven’t really happened at Ghyakar. So, there remains a distinctly mediaeval Tibetan feel to it. Ghyakar is a very small settlement of farmers and sheep herders. As it’s got that “off the beaten track” feel to it, it’s another good place to gain a sense of “the Mustang that was”. Indeed, polyandry was a practise here until recent times. Maybe it still is. It’s another area where blue sheep (the favourite prey of the snow leopard) are often seen too.
The next day you’ll be heading for Jomsom, which you passed through a few days ago, so that you can take the early morning flight to Pokhara and skip the descent by road from Jomsom to Pokhara, which realistically would take two days of driving. The flight time is just 18 minutes!
But, although you just passed through Jomsom, it probably won’t have escaped your notice that Jomsom is a bit grotty. A lot of domestic tourists stay in Jomsom (on their way up to/down from Muktinath) nowadays and much prefer to get hammered on cheap booze and play very loud “boom, boom” music than enjoy the Himalaya. This perhaps not the most pleasant of places to spend your final evening in the Himalaya.
So, we know a “hideaway” sort of place. In fact it’s a working farm, an apple farm to be precise. The farm is about 30 minutes by vehicle from Jomsom and is tucked away on the opposite side of the main valley to Jomsom in a more secluded side valley that most tourists probably won’t know exists. On the valley floor beneath soaring, forested hills is Chimley Orchard Farm. Here in this hidden valley the peace and quiet is deafening. There’s a small mountain lake at Dhumba a short walk away. The accommodation, which consists of just four en-suite rooms must not be thought of in terms of a hotel or guest house even. The farm owners built these cosy, creature comfort rooms with commercial visitors to the farm and friends and family in mind to use every now and again. So, it’s unlikely you’d find Chimley Orchard Farm in any tourist accommodation directories. Chances are if you chose to stay at Chimley you’d be the only people staying here.
The following morning it’s a 30 minute drive to the airport and before you know it you’ll be sitting in a relaxing cafe by the lake at Pokhara and basking in the balmy warmth.
Although Pokhara itself is basically a collection of hotels, bars, cafe, restaurants and shops that seem to continually expand and jostle for space along the shores of the lake, it’s an OK sort of place to hang out. The city itself isn’t of any great interest
See WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN POKHARA for more.
A short flight back to Kathmandu and your journey through the middle hills, the lowlands and the Himalayas of Nepal is complete!
Snow Cat Travel 